We were shocked to learn that not only the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism, but also the Turkish Ministry of Economy, were interested in hosting Ukrainian journalists on the Turkish Black Sea coast.
There didn't appear to be any profound specialists in economic matters among our press trip group, and this topic is vast; what does the host party want so badly? At the end of the tour, in Trabzon, we received a response from the region's proprietors.
The second surprise came later, already during the journey.
Most visitors to Turkey try to arrive by aircraft. However, some people prefer to go by water. This is exactly what a group of Ukrainian journalists were offered. It is not quick, but it is quite enjoyable, especially in the summer when the Black Sea is calm and mild, and you are followed on the route by flocks of frolicking dolphins. The ferry ships of Ukrferry are contemporary and pleasant, so there is no fear of seasickness, and the ease of this means of transportation was welcomed by automobile and motorbike owners. Because, by utilizing a boat to transfer their "iron horses," they may not only explore attractive areas in Turkey on their own, but even continue their voyage with Georgia. After all, it only takes a professional driver a couple of hours to travel from the border Trabzon to the gorgeous Batumi.
And, owing to the establishment of a customs-border terminal in the Istanbul port of Haydarpasa, crossing the Turkish border has been significantly simplified and hastened for Ukrainians. The incredible view for those who came from the harbor itself merits its own paragraph: in the early morning, the golden domes of Hagia Sophia, the slender minarets of the Blue Mosque, and the recognizable majestic outlines of the Sultan's Palace sparkled through the cabin glass of our ship. Exactly as in the movies! One of our group members exclaimed.
Furthermore, our road traveled not along the well-known Turkish resorts, but along the country's opposite - the Black Sea - coast. After all, it's already a misconception that when people think of Turkey, they think of luxurious hotels by the sea and all-inclusive vacations. And what do the names of cities like Amasra, Zonguldak, Kastamonu, Sinop, Samsun, Ordu, Amasya, Tirebolu, Giresun, and Rize indicate? Tourists on the beach - hardly nothing.
And this Black Sea, not gilded for visitors, but daily, working Turkey, astounds people with its historical and cultural triumphs, ancient authenticity, and willingness to tackle the difficulties of the moment. The philosopher Diogenes of Sinop, the father of geography Strabo of Amasia, and the Ottoman sultans were born and lived on this coast, the Amazons fought here, magnificent architecture was erected and port facilities grew, culinary masterpieces were created, and myths and legends were born that entered the cultural treasury of mankind. And there was something fascinating and startling about being able to stroll down many of these cities' famed pathways, touching (sometimes literally) unique historical masterpieces, unique national treasures.
Each of the cities shown is unique, and some of them are justifiably proud of the world-famous people who were born on this soil and went on to achieve legendary glory for it.
The Turkish Black Sea coast lies immediately opposite the Ukrainian peninsula of Crimea, facing each other across the sea. Actually, the nature here is eerily similar to that of the Crimea. Amasra, for example, is a delightful tiny resort town that mixes many aspects of the New World and Sudak. When Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror first beheld these locations, he reportedly questioned his spiritual instructor, "Is this me, or is this paradise?" Their joy is immortalized in a monument built just on the embankment.
Part of Amasra is located on the tiny island of Boztepe, which is accessible by a bridge erected during the Roman Empire. The city is housed within a beautiful historical citadel erected by the Genoese (hello, Sudak!) and renovated throughout the Ottoman Empire. Two of the most stunning bays serve as beach vacation destinations for visitors as well as natural ports for fisherman and yachtsmen. And when we arrived, the newlyweds picked the bays and the bridge for their picture sessions. Another element in this, and, by the way, in other Turkish cities - and this is not about architecture, but about... cats - struck me. We must see what full-fledged masters they feel in the city - there are many of them, and they are all sleek, with a royal step, imposingly resting in the sun, not a single emaciated beggar grabbed our attention: food, water.
The city of Ordu is another near relative of the lovely Crimean landscapes, which are often evocative of Yalta. However, he will outperform the whole city of Yalta in terms of cleanliness, modernity, and population. Even the Argonauts, according to tradition, landed in the Horde in search of the Golden Fleece. Around 800,000 people now reside here and in the surrounding area, with visitors accounting for nearly a third of this figure during the summer.
The funicular connects it to Yalta, however the local Telefunken is considerably more contemporary and practical. The view of the city and the shore from its highest point, near the ultra-modern Radisson Blu Hotel, is utterly magnificent. And, even down in the city, we were taken aback by another innovation: the pedestrian crossing over the busy traffic here is upper, equipped with a bridge, but it is reached through an escalator rather than stairs or a ramp.
Another "chip" Ordu that is constantly marketed by local officials is that this area has the cleanest air, at least on this coast. "Ordu is the birthplace of oxygen," as the tagline goes. So believe - or don't believe - but take a big breath...
There's also Samsun, Turkey's largest Black Sea port and a developed tourist and resort town, not just for summer vacations, because there are well-equipped ski slopes nearby. The city mixes the beauty of the sea coast and forested cliffs, the modernism of large avenues, and the charm of little historic alleyways in a lovely way. Not to add that here is the Turkish "cradle of the revolution" - Mustafa Kemal Ataturk's freedom campaign. In 1919, Atatürk's forces disembarked from the ship "Bandirma" to begin the war for the establishment of a new independent Turkish state in place of the Sultan's feudal-clerical regime.
Well, the city of Sinop was previously the scene of a combat during the Crimean War, and the Battle of Sinop in 1853 caused the United Kingdom and France to support Turkey in this conflict. It is now a location of reverence for Diogenes, as well as a vacation center - not just one, but multiple monuments have been placed here. This ancient Greek philosopher-eccentric, "citizen of the world," who lived in a barrel and wandered with his dog in the light of day with a lamp in quest of an honest man... According to tradition, he met and chatted with Alexander more than once, and once, conquered by Diogenes' wit and inner freedom, Macedonian said: "If I were not Alexander, I would be Diogenes."
And how can one not be impressed by the spectacular cascade of 28 (!) waterfalls that make a crystal necklace in the green lace of mountains in the town of Erfelek, not far from Sinop?
So, our countrymen who crave for Crimean resorts should not be too disappointed: until we reclaim the peninsula, you may visit Turkey's Black Sea coast for similar sceneries and resorts.
Turkey- The Country of Capitals
It's not about the country's ancient and new capitals. There are plenty others. It was discovered that each area in Turkey has its own distinct flavor, based either on geographical elements or on specialization. As a result, practically every province (il) has a city - the capital of something.
Throughout our tour, it appeared that one capital replaced another. Samsun, for example, is the Amazons' capital. More specifically, their home country. On the embankment, a whole complex is devoted to these mythical ladies, capped with a massive monument of a warrior maiden. The city organizes the Amazon Festival every year at the end of July.
Safranbolu, as the name suggests, is the saffron capital. Also available is Turkish pleasure, which you can learn about and sample from a variety of vendors, as well as local baklava. This ancient original city, by the way, is on the UNESCO World Heritage List: it, and particularly the town of Yoruk, which is part of it, has the greatest number of historical architectural treasures. Small stone homes with red roofs, sometimes pointed, sometimes round, small cobblestone lanes, and historic mosques have remained virtually undisturbed for centuries, transporting tourists back to the Ottoman Empire.
Taköprü is famed for its distinctive stone bridge from the period of Ancient Rome, but it also has the title of garlic capital, with over 5000 households growing this valuable pungent plant here. Yes, plus there is a garlic memorial here. And Mengen, if not the capital, is at least a "incubator" of chefs: many prominent culinary specialists of 5-star hotels and the top restaurants in this region hail from there.
The championship in canes is held in the little village of Devrek. We couldn't even comprehend how many variations of this, to be honest, commonplace stick-support for a person might be designed and manufactured! There are simply works of art - both in terms of the intricacy of the carving and figures on the cane's head and the cunning of what can be hidden in this cane. A portrait of Ataturk with a cane, provided to him by the then-owner of the company, is prominently displayed in one of the workplaces.
Giresun is the hazelnut capital in the world. Although it grows in many places along the coast (the same Ordu is surrounded by walnut plantations and has very good harvests), the hazelnut is unique here, and there is a monument to hazelnuts, stalls in the shape of this delicious "ball," and even the dome of the clock tower reminds you that you are in the hazelnut region. Not only that, but there is also the capital of cherries, which also represents the monument put on a suburban roadway. According to mythology, the juicy delectable fruit spread throughout Europe from here - its bones were brought to Italy by the ancient Romans.
And Tirebolu, in the province of Rize, has long held the distinction of tea capital. We were perplexed as to why everyone of Turkey drank predominantly black tea, yet customs exist... In any event, the tea cultivated in Rize is more than adequate for the entire country, where this is a cult drink. Tourists are drawn here not just by the sea and tea, but also by rock climbing, canyoning, rafting trips, and mountain lake fishing.
The province of Amasya is the apple capital. From the beginning of the 15th century, it served as the birthplace of the famed geographer Strabo, who penned the 17-volume Geography, as well as the Sultan's cradle. The offspring of Turkish sultans were raised and educated here, and many were also taught how to administer the realm. Today, it is a lovely village surrounded by vegetation, situated on the banks of the river at the base of the cliff. The river is crossed by a number of beautiful bridges.
On one side, historic Ottoman homes are lined up in a chain, picturesquely hanging straight over the sea, while on the other, there is a promenade and a lovely tiled embankment with various memorials commemorating Amasya's notable characters. By the way, one of the monuments is to the Sultan with Ukrainian ancestors, Suleiman and Roksolana's grandson - Gyurrem Murad.
Finally, Trabzon, where we met with the trip organizers, is the country's historical center as well as its second biggest port on the Black Sea coast. Trebizond was the city's ancient name. He is recognized by this name in Greek stories and myths, as well as on historical maps. The city has kept a large number of ancient sites, and many visitors who conquer this coast prefer to complete their journey in Trabzon. Few places in the world, they claim, have the breath of time so plainly sensed.
Bussiness Handshake
Finally, Trabzon, where we met the tour organizers, is both the country's historical center and its second largest port on the Black Sea coast. Trebizond was the city's prehistoric name. He is known by this name in Greek mythology and legends, as well as on historical maps. Many historic ruins have been preserved in the city, and many people who conquer this coast prefer to end their adventure in Trabzon. Few places in the world, they argue, can feel the passage of time more clearly.
Furthermore, as we have seen, the minimum salary in Turkey has grown to about 1,500 lira (a little more than 500 US dollars), and the minimum pension is around 1,300 lira. This year's average profits were around a thousand dollars. These are pretty outstanding numbers for Ukrainians.
Why is the Turkish Black Sea region is weaker?
For starters, the tourist season here is not as lengthy as it is in the south of the nation due to the shorter (like in Turkey) summer. This is one of the pillars around which the local economy is constructed.
- We are a bit sad, - said Suat Gyurkok, director of the East Black Sea tourism organization "Tursab," and Ali Ayvazoglu, representative of Turkey's Ministry of Culture and Tourism, that our region, with its many views and unique spots, is still relatively unknown to Ukrainian visitors. So far, our "home" travelers and vacationers have won.
Nonetheless, our interlocutors noticed that the region's appeal among foreigners is expanding. People are drawn to the rich history, quirks of national culture and life, and one-of-a-kind folk crafts. By the way, wonderful roads (well, really excellent, there is nothing even to compare with ours), comfortable hotels, delicious cuisine, and the hospitality of local inhabitants play a significant role in this attraction. Medical and pilgrimage tourism have just begun to grow more aggressively, and both sectors still have possibilities to expand.
Second, the reason for this "economic disadvantage" is that the Black Sea area is now the only one in Turkey where more than half of the population lives in villages. And the agriculture business is dependent on a variety of elements that are not always controllable. Migration is also not to be underestimated; in this region, it is higher than in others.
As a result, local officials anticipate that the region will jolt the growth of commercial collaboration outside of the country. Turkey, on the other hand, enjoys strong relations with Ukraine, but life does not stop. And science as well. The regional development agency's director, Mehmet Akif Erat, emphasized that, for example, the city of Trabzon and its surrounding territories may be of significant relevance for the continued development of commercial links between our nations. The highest harvests of hazelnuts, kiwi, and citrus fruits are gathered in this Black Sea area, which may replenish the Ukrainian market.
Furthermore, during the harvesting season from October to January, the adjacent city of Samsun has a regular maritime connection with the Ukrainian port of Chornomorsk. In turn, they are interested in technical developments employed in Ukraine, where we also have a big agricultural component. In general, our countries produce commodities that are mutually competitive in each other's marketplaces.
Nonetheless, Turkish businesses do not abandon aspirations for the formation of potential joint ventures with Ukrainian partners, the increase of investments, and mutually beneficial inventive collaboration. To be honest, they explicitly stated that we should mention that we are looking forward to investors and innovative offers. As we can see, Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan's recent visit to Ukraine and the signing of joint contracts with Ukrainian President Petro Poroshenko bolstered these ambitions. So what lies ahead is a growth in mutual trade and the possibility of establishing a free trade zone, both of which are particular reasons for focusing corporate efforts in the near future.
I want to feel optimistic about the future. Because we have a lot to learn from Turkish businesses, and we can demonstrate our worth. As a result, the Turkish Black Sea region aggressively invites Ukrainians as both visitors and commercial partners.
And, for some reason, it appears that, despite having advanced to a greater level of economic growth, Black Sea Turkey will not become more shiny and gilded "for external use" as a result of this. And it will retain its allure due to its naturalness. And it's so close and familiar to us - it's also a Black Sea nation.